Donut Doctor

11 Dec

This week, we had hoped to visit the legendary Swedish Bakery in Andersonville.  When we got there, though, we discovered that Swedish Bakery only makes donuts on certain days, and this was not one of them.  Oops.

Regrouping outside, we decided to consult the Internet.  Calling on the assistance of Guest Consultant Ann Giglio, we determined that a donut shop lay nearby in Albany Park.  This is how we arrived at Donut Doctor.

There are a lot of things we’ll probably never know about Donut Doctor.  Tucked away in the corner of a strip mall, it was very unassuming.  If we hadn’t known to be looking for it, we probably would have missed it.

Albany Park, Donut Doctor's neighborhood.

The inside of Donut Doctor in Albany Park. A pretty low-key place.

We didn’t stick around to ask questions.  After ordering a few donuts and some coffee, we scooted back to the car, eager to dig in.

Here’s what we found:

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Donut #1: Chocolate Frosted

Coffee Girl:

Donut Doctor’s standard chocolate frosted donut is a decent entry in the Chicagoland Donut Pantheon.  Light and buttery, the yeast donut positions itself on the sweet-dinner-roll end of the Donut Spectrum, while the chocolate frosting is pleasingly thick and sweet.  Very nice.

Donut Boy:

Classical-tasting chocolate frosting with a pleasing viscosity.  Strong hints of butter and egg in the dough announced themselves immediately.  A flavor different than anything we’ve come across, yet difference alone does not a good donut make.  Read on.

Donut #2: Vanilla Frosted

Coffee Girl:

Same tasty, buttery yeast donut with excellent vanilla frosting that is still fresh enough to smear on our fingers.  It’s worth bypassing a few Dunkin’ Donuts to grab a couple of these.

Donut Boy:

Similar to its chocolate frosted brother.  A pleasing, classic vanilla on top of pretty good dough.

Donut #3: Vanilla Frosted Coconut

Coffee Girl:

Looked fantastic; must have been sitting on the shelf too long, because nothing registered on our taste buds at all.

Donut Boy:

We’ve had this problem before with coconut donuts: blandness.  Sure, there are coconut sprinkles on top, but your tongue can’t really tell.  An interesting texture, but flavor-wise not that different from the vanilla frosted.

Donut #4: Glazed

Coffee Girl:

Light butter-and-egg sweetness in this yeast donut with a sugary glaze.  A decent donut, unless you’ve recently had a Krispy Kreme.  Which we have.

Donut Boy:

My favorite of the morning.  Simple, straight-ahead glaze enshrouding Donut Doctor’s surprisingly light donut.  That being said, not quite a Krispy Kreme.

Donut #5: Chocolate Frosted Custard-Filled Bismark

Donut Boy:

Barely filled with custard.  Once it was gone, you were left with the same chocolate frosting-dough combination as the other ones.  Disappointing.  Please see below for comments on Filling Distribution.

Donut #6: Powdered Sugar Custard-Filled Bismark

Donut Boy:

The powdered sugar provided a pleasing blanket of glucose.  Unfortunately, this pastry also seriously lacked filling.

Donut #7: Sugared Jelly-Filled Bismark

Coffee Girl:

Oh, what could have been!  A great party set-up, but only one guest showed up.  By which we mean that the jelly filling was so sparse that we were embarrassed for it.  A shame, considering the combination of jelly and dough was actually delicious.

Donut Boy:

Pleasant crunch from the sugar.  Nice light dough and a delicious strawberry jelly.  For some weird reason, though, there was barely any jelly at all (again, see below).

Donut #8: Chocolate Frosted Custard-Filled Long John

Donut Boy:

The custard inside this long john was weirdly distributed.  There were small pockets of custard, instead of one long strip (which I would have preferred).  This mean you got custard in every other bite (sort of).  Decent dough and frosting, but not enough filling.

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Okay, so…

WTF is up with this filling distribution?

As the above picture shows, there’s maybe a small spoonful’s worth of jelly in this bismark.  Undeniably inadequate.  All three bismarks we tried could have been amazing, but after one great bite, you’re left with this:

Absolutely no filling left.  Sorry, Donut Doctor, but your dough isn’t good enough to stand on its own.  We’re not trying to just eat straight bread here.

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So if you’re in the neighborhood at Donut Time, this is better than Dunkin’ Donuts.  But if you live farther than say, 10 minutes away, Donut Doctor is not really worth the trip.

-CG&DB

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